Participants, hometown, vehicle, problems:
Fred, Emma and fellow bike lover David, from Adelaide, in Delica. Speedo sensor broke, 2 CV rubber boots split, steering shaft splines slipped, flat batteries overnight, side awning flipped over car
Brian & Sandy, from Adelaide, in Nissan Navara dual cab, tailgate catch issue
Drew & Ingrid, from Adelaide, in Drew’s father’s Mercedes ML 500 V8, tyre puncture on Birdsville Track, ESP definition problem, couple of tows, some under-body bash-plate damage
Darian & Rob, from Queensland (although at present no fixed place of abode), LandCruiser (Pricilla), shocker guard split, exploding air hose
Dick & Wendy, from Queensland, in Nissan Patrol with slide on camper (Taj), fuel transfer not stoppingRick, Robyn, Megan & Jarrod, from Tasmania, in LandCruiser, drinking water leakage
Allan, from Brisbane, Nissan Patrol, bogged in first mud puddle, flat tyre overnight, fuel filter required replacing, dual battery connection replacement, side awning flipped over car
John & Kym, from Clare, rear right brake line cut on Birdsville Track, roof rack mount loosened twice, steering rubber boot split, flat battery at Oodnadatta, chunk of tread off rear tyre
In 2000, we decided that it would be great to cross the Simpson Desert in our newly purchased Range Rover. All the studying we did told us not to travel in the summer and also not to attempt this alone. We decided that since none of our friends had a 4wd that we needed to join a club to find someone to travel with us.
We went to the next Caravan & Camping Show and found one 4wd Club just as we were leaving. We were greeted by a very friendly Tony who informed us of meeting times etc, so we showed up at the next meeting of the Wanderers. Well, we were finally going to achieve this dream, it’s only 2008.With the rest of the Adelaide crowd heading to Birdsville in just over a day, John and I decided to leave Clare early and take our time. Our goal for the first night was Bunyeroo Gorge. As we arrived at Wilpena Pound we were greeted by countless kangaroos from their feeding spots, while heading to our camping spot for the night. It was obviously a cold night as in the morning the windscreen was covered in ice, both inside and out.
Heading on, we stopped in for the first time to visit Talc Alf. It was fascinating listening to Alf’s thoughts and meanings behind the alphabet, as well as his design for a new Australian flag. With our minds reeling from information we arrived at Farina campground for the night.After filling up at Marree, we headed up the Birdsville Track. It was surprising, and annoying, how many people stopped in the middle of the road for their meal/coffee breaks, a truck would have had trouble getting through. When we reached the Cooper Creek crossing, it was lunchtime and we set ourselves up to wait for the rest of the Adelaide contingent who were due that afternoon. When they arrived we all settled in for the night with a nice campfire.
Off the next day toward Birdsville. Lunch was in a little spot off the road. Just in time for us as Fred points out one of the roof rack mounts has come loose and in need of repair. The road becomes a little scary from here, changing between old mud ruts and stones that can puncture tyre walls. We were all keeping watch for straying cattle as there are no fences, when a calf decides to dart in front of John and we found ourselves in the Delica sideways. Calf, car and people were all safe though.Then about 70km to the Queensland border we noticed a strange smell, and stopped to check out the car. The rear brake line had been completely severed. A quick temporary fix, by bending the brake line back to stop further leakage, allows us to limp into Birdsville. The others had to stop again as the Merc punctured a tyre. Once in Birdsville we met up with the rest of the group, filled up with fuel ready for the next day, tried to get the punctured tyre fixed, to no avail and asked around about brake line repairs. T
he Birdsville workshop didn’t open until 8am the next day, and half the travellers had already booked into the Caravan Park, so the rest of us settle in too for the night. Thanks to Brian, a ‘bodgey’ course of action on the brake line was planned in case the mechanic couldn’t repair it properly, and a Pub meal ended the day just right.We were preparing coffee in the morning when Sandy pointed out that we were on Queensland time and 8am was here already, so John rushed the Delica up to the workshop. All could be fixed, and we waited around while some went to the Museum and the Bakery. Since we had already driven up Big Red on our last visit, the others said they would meet us out there while they had a play. Fortunately after only 2 hours the Delica was fixed and the modest fee was cheerfully paid. The Hills were finally on their way to the Simpson Desert.
Around several mud ‘puddles’, and then we stopped at a moving river. Since we were on our own, we were a little concerned, but we made it across fine. The rest of the group all successfully attempted Big Red. When we got out to discuss plans we noticed Allan was very muddy. Others were happy to inform us that Allan managed to get bogged in the first mud puddle and when he got out of the car ended in knee high mud, which left him with muddy shoes and trousers for the rest of the trip. While we were there a motorbike and sidecar came along, they had just finished crossing the Simpson. It had taken them 5 days and 80 litres of fuel. They were heading for Cape Yorke.
I wasn’t expecting the desert to be what I saw. There was hill after hill of white and yellow wildflowers. Amazing. Drew & Ingrid needed a couple of tows over early sand hills until the ESP button (turn off the traction control) meaning was realised, after that he made the hills well.We stopped for the 1st night along the QAA line. While everyone was setting up camp Fred was under his car. He had found a CV rubber boot that had split, which was eventually taped up successfully to get him through. Good old 100mph tape. In the morning we were informed that at 6.30am the temperature was -3.4. This was followed by people finding their wash-up water
completely frozen. Fortunately it was our coldest night by far for the whole trip.
Dick & Wendy had a fuel transfer that would not stop early on in the desert, which was fixed somehow. Some things you only find out about later, so I’m not sure of the details here.The next day we headed along the salt lake and in to Poeppel’s Corner for a group photo. Some of the members didn’t travel well. We made it half way down the Knolls Track and managed to find a semi flat place to camp the 2nd night and build our campfire. In the morning John noticed that someone was leaving a trail of water, not good when you are crossing the desert. After much discussion it ended up being Rick & Robyn’s car leaking from the drinking water hose.
From here we headed down to the Rig Road, specifically to see the Lone Gum Tree. At the Lone Gum Tree Fred needed to attend to his vehicle, as the steering shaft splines had slipped from the lift kit he had put on just before leaving. We had a lunch break, while the mechanics worked. There had been rumours that there wasn’t a koala there in the tree anymore, but he was there in all his glory. The weather was starting to warm up now. Not summer heat, just perfect.Our 3rd night was on the WAA line, it was quite a mild night although still definitely requiring camp fire warmth. In the morning Fred’s Delica had a flat battery and a call came over the radio for a jump start, also Allan found that one of his tyres had gone flat. A quick change and we were on our way. Shortly after I noticed John was driving with one hand and holding the roof rack mount with the other. He stopped and tightened another loose mount. Then, heading along toward Purnie Bore, Brian called out for a screwdriver to fix a tailgate catch issue (his tools locked behind the offending tailgate).
We stopped at the Simpson Desert sign to have photos taken of respective families actually achieving the goal of making it across.
Our 4th camp was at Purnie Bore. All everyone could think about was a shower. It actually was hot under the sun and we grouped under shades that people had. A sudden gust of wind had Fred’s side awning flip over his car, closely followed by Allan’s with the next gust. Somewhere before Purnie Bore, Darian & Rob noticed a noise from under their car. On inspection a shocker guard had split. We enjoyed happy hour as some took turns in showering. Sandy and Rob both had roasts for tea that night, and Sandy invited Rob to join them using their campfire rotisserie. Smelt great.
There was a lot of activity around Allan’s car in the morning. Ended up his fuel filter was replaced and at the same time the dual battery connection needed attending to. Fred’s voice came over the radio again asking for a jump start. We headed off for the short journey to Dalhousie Springs where most enjoyed a relaxing hot swim. Here it was time to pump tyres up. While pumping their tyres up at Dalhousie Springs, Darian and Rob had an exploding air hose, something to do with the hose not being able to cope with the performance of the pump. Here we said our goodbyes to Dick & Wendy, Rick, Robyn, Megan & Jarrod, Darian & Rob, and Allan. They were heading onto Mt Dare for various reasons.
When we stopped for lunch after the Dalhousie ruin, John noticed the steering rubber boot had split, more 100mph tape to the rescue. Although the road was better than we had seen, the ‘Watch for Road Trains’ sign was a little unnerving. We all rolled into Oodnadatta, grateful that the fuel we had taken with us had made the grade. Fred, Emma & David, Drew & Ingrid and Brian & Sandy all decided to head toward Coober Pedy due to time restrictions, and we decided to take thinks a little slower heading home via the Oodnadatta Track.
After the others left us we went to start the car and the battery was flat. We were stranded until a nice local helped by jump-starting the car for us. His suggestion was that the next roadhouse was in William Creek, so if we didn’t stop until then, we should be fine. 50km short of William Creek there was a big thud from under the rear of the car, and on inspection, John noticed a chunk of tread had come off the rear tyre. We made is successfully into William Creek, by travelling reasonably slowly. All was quiet, the Hotel was locked up, so we headed around the back and settled in for the night.
In the morning John changed tyres, we paid our fees and were off along the track, when John saw fire coming from the scrub. Being Clare people now, we know how fires spread, and so stopped to see if we could do anything to stop the flames. With only a shovel that would be of any use against the size of the fire, John headed in. I called for assistance, hoping to get a local farmer, when a couple heading up the track from Marree answered me. Two friendly ‘Grey Nomads’ in no particular hurry to be anywhere came in and the man went in to assist John.
Between the two of them the fire was under control eventually, although the gusty wind that changed direction frequently didn’t help. While the guys got their breath I just kept an eye on flare-ups. We were treated to lunch and a cuppa. Real tea leaves in a pot with a cosy on it, no less. After lunch we both headed off in our respective directions to let someone know that things needed checking up on later.Being Sunday it was near impossible to find anyone in Marree to report the fire to, so we left word with the shopkeeper and went on. Eventually we pulled into the Hawker Old Ghan Restaurant for a well deserved meal, before stopping at Hawker for the night.
We had a great time, enjoyed meeting new people from various places. It was interesting watching people, you could tell where someone came from by the shorts or jumpers they were wearing. Thanks Fred for taking the trip and passing on the information he knew from his surveying field. We have now achieved our goal of crossing the Simpson.Kym (& John)
Disclaimer : please note